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The gateway to Muskoka is humdrum GRAVENHURST , sited at the southern end of Lake Muskoka, some 170km north of Toronto. Cottagers whizz in and out to collect supplies and arrive in numbers for the Muskoka Winter Carnival , in late February, when all manner of events are held from demolition derbies to delicate ice-sculpture competitions. Outside of carnival time, the main attraction is the Bethune Memorial House , 235 John St N (mid-May to late Oct daily 10am-noon & 1-5pm; late Oct to mid-May Mon-Fri only; $2.50), the birthplace of Norman Bethune, a doctor who introduced Western medicine to the Chinese in the 1930s and invented mobile blood-transfusion units. The house has been restored to its appearance in 1890 and has displays on Bethune's considerable accomplishments - he was even praised by Chairman Mao - detailed in English, French and Chinese. Afterwards, you could hop aboard RMS Segwun , a 105-year-old steamship - the oldest still operating in North America - that cruises up Lake Muskoka from the town wharf (June to mid-Oct daily; $11-70 depending on length of cruise; tel 705/687-6667), giving fine views of the hills and its many mansions. In the unlikely event you decide to stay, the tourist office at 685 Muskoka Rd N (Mon-Fri 8.30am-4.30pm; tel 705/687-4432) has a full list of local accommodation . One good spot is the Pinedale Inn , 200 Pinedale Lane (tel 705/687-2822; $80-100), a well-maintained motel on the shore of Gull Lake surrounded by pine trees and with rooms that have kitchenettes and bathrooms. For food , head for either the pleasant White Pine Cafe , on the main street in a tastefully converted old general store at 195 Muskoka Rd S, or Sloanes , 155 Muskoka Rd S, which has been here as long as Gravenhurst, and serves a divine blueberry pie.
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