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The obvious place to start a visit is City Hall (free guided tours late May to Oct Mon-Fri 10am-4pm, plus Sat & Sun in July & Aug 11am-3pm; 30min), a copper-domed, stone extravagance which, with its imposing Neoclassical columns and portico, dominates the waterfront as was intended. The building was designed in the British Renaissance Tuscan Revival-style; a suitably grand structure for what was to be the Canadian Parliament. By the time the building was completed in 1844, however, Kingston had lost its capital status and - faced with colossal bills - the city council had to make some quick adjustments, filling the empty corridors with shops and stalls and even a saloon. Things are more sedate today, with municipal offices occupying most of the space, but the tour provides a fascinating insight into the development of the city and includes a trip up the clock tower via a magnificent circular stairway. Back outside, the Market Square , in the shadow of City Hall, is home to an excellent open-air farmers' market on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, while on Sundays the square is given over to craft and antiques stalls. Opposite, the site of the original French outpost is marked by the waterfront Confederation Park , whose manicured lawns run behind the harbour with its marina, squat, nineteenth-century Martello tower and the dock at the foot of Brock Street from where there are cruises of the Thousand Islands . These islands litter the St Lawrence River as it leaves Lake Ontario and range from tiny hunks of rock to much larger islands with thick forest and lavish second homes. It's a pretty cruise at any time of the year, but especially so in autumn when the leaves turn - though the cruises from Gananoque do have the scenic edge. Here in Kingston, there are several cruises to choose from, including the Island Queen , a replica steamboat (May-Oct 1-4 daily; 2hr; $15), and the Island Belle ferry boat (May-Oct, 1-4 daily; 1hr 30min; $14). In addition, the Island Star catamaran offers lunch and dinner cruises (May-Oct 1-2 daily; 3hr-3hr 30min; $34/54). The tourist office has the full list of cruises, but for the three mentioned contact Kingston 1000 Islands Cruises, 1 Brock St (tel 613/549-5544, fax 549-1608, www.1000islandscruises.on.ca ). Back on dry land, it's a couple of minutes' walk from Confederation Park to Kingston's finest limestone building, the Cathedral of St George (June-Sept Mon-Thurs 10am-4pm, Fri 10am-7pm & Sat 10am-1pm; Oct-May Fri 4-7pm & Sun noon-1pm; free), at King Street and Johnson. Dating from the 1820s, the graceful lines of the cathedral, with its Neoclassical portico and dainty domes, are deceptively uniform for the church was remodelled on several occasions, notably after severe fire damage in 1899. The interior holds some delightful Tiffany stained-glass windows and a plain memorial to Molly Brant, a Mohawk leader and sister of Joseph Brant, whose loyalty to the British interest brought her here after the American War of Independence in 1783. From the cathedral, it's a brief stroll to the main commercial drag, Princess Street , whose assorted shops, offices and cafes stretch up from the lakeshore. Alternatively, it's a short hop back to the waterfront and the Marine Museum of the Great Lakes (June-Oct daily 10am-5pm; Nov-May Mon-Fri 10am-4pm; $4.25), a somewhat dowdy accumulation of maritime bygones, where the shipbuilders' gallery is of some mild interest. Moored alongside is the unusual Alexander Henry Bed and Breakfast .
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