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RED BAY , 80km from Blanc-Sablon and at the end of Route 510, was the largest whaling port in the world in the late sixteenth century and is the most worthwhile place to visit on Labrador's east coast. At its peak, over a thousand men lived here during the whaling season, producing half a million gallons of whale oil to be shipped back on a month-long voyage to Europe. Whale oil was used for light, lubrication and as an additive to drugs, soap and pitch, and one 55-gallon barrel could fetch a price equal to $10,000 today - so for the Basques the discovery of Labrador's right-whale stocks was equivalent to striking oil. However, as well as the treacherous journey from Spain to what they knew as Terranova, the Basques withstood terrible hardships to claim their rich booty. Once in Labrador, they rowed fragile wooden craft called chalupas into these rough seas and then attached drogues to the whales to slow them down. It was then a matter of following their prey for hours until the whale surfaced and could be lanced to death. Three factors brought the whale boom to an end: first, the Basques were so successful that within thirty years they had killed off more than 15,000 whales; second, the industry became more hazardous with early freeze-ups in the 1570s; and finally, the Basque ships and men were absorbed into the ill-fated Spanish Armada of 1588. Serious study of this fascinating area began in 1977, when marine archeologists discovered the remains of three Basque galleons and several chalupas . Most notable of these vessels was the San Juan galleon, which was split in half by an iceberg in 1565, with the loss of one black rat - its bones were found in a wicker basket with a scattering of codfish bones, which showed that the heading and splitting techniques were identical to those used by the Labrador fishermen today. On land, excavations uncovered try-works (where the whale blubber was boiled down into oil), personal artefacts and, in 1982, a cemetery on Saddle Island where the remains of 160 young men were found. Many were lying in groups, indicating that they died as crew members when chasing the whales, but some had not been buried - which suggests that the community had died of starvation when an early freeze dashed their chances of getting home. New objects are constantly being discovered and a Visitor Centre (mid-June to Sept Mon-Sun 9am-8pm; $5; tel 920-2197) at the Red Bay National Historic Site allows you to explore the archeological sites. An excellent half-hour documentary at the centre shows footage of the discovery that revealed so much about Canada's early history. If you're feeling adventurous you can also take a boat trip to Saddle Island (Mon-Sat 3 daily 9am-4pm; $2), where you can roam around the whaler's cemetery. On Saddle Island you can enjoy a self-guided tour of the archeological sites. If you are lucky you may also spot a few whales in the distance. Red Bay's Whaling Station Cabins , 61 East Harbour Drive (tel & fax 920-2156; $60-80), offers en-suite rooms with cable TV, and has the best restaurant in the area, while more basic accommodation is available at the Basinview Bed & Breakfast , 145 Main Hwy (tel 920-2002; up to $40/$40-60), run by friendly owners with a knowledge of the town's Basque whaling history.
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