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Arriving by ferry from Maine, many American visitors get their first taste of Canada in YARMOUTH , and most of them leave immediately. And indeed it is a mundanely modern place, though gallant efforts have been made to freshen up the waterfront and the town's deep, tidal bay provides a modicum of scenic interest. It's also a good place for tourist information with the Nova Scotia Visitor Centre , just uphill from the ferry terminal (daily: May, June, Sept & Oct 9am-5pm; July & Aug 8am-7pm), issuing bucketloads of free leaflets and brochures. If you're stuck here for the night, there's a comfortable B&B right opposite the visitors' centre, the Murray Manor , 225 Main St (tel & fax 742-9625; $40-60). Alternatively, the Midtown Motel , 13 Parade St (tel 742-5333 or 1-877/742-5600; $40-60), offers simple but adequate rooms a ten-minute walk north along Main Street from the ferry terminal. From Yarmouth, Bay Ferries (tel 902/742-6800 or 1-888/249-SAIL, www.nfl-bay.com ) operate high-speed, car-carrying catamarans to Bar Harbor, Maine (June to late Oct 1 daily; 3hr; passengers $60-70, vehicles $90-105), and Scotia Prince (tel 1-800/341-7540, www.princeoffundy.com ) run car ferries to Portland, Maine (May to late Oct 1 daily; 11hr; passengers $60-80, cars $80-100, cabins from $20-95; up to forty percent discounts for returns and on some midweek sailings).
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