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Highway 333 leaves Hwy 103 a few kilometres west of Halifax to make its slow progress through the forested hinterland that so successfully confined the region's early settlers to the coast. Once at the shoreline, the road slips through ribbon fishing villages, past glacial boulders and round rocky bays to reach tiny PEGGY'S COVE , 45km from Halifax. Founded in 1811, the hamlet, with a resident population of just sixty, surrounds a rocky slit of a harbour, with a spiky timber church, a smattering of clapboard houses and wooden jetties on stilts. It's a beautiful spot, the solitary lighthouse set against the sea-smoothed granite of the shore, and it attracts swarms of tourists; try to visit at sunrise or sunset, when the coach parties leave the village to its inhabitants. Behind the lighthouse, The Sou'wester dispenses mundane meals, while the three-roomed Peggy's Cove B&B, overlooking the harbour from the end of Church Road (tel 823-2265 or 1-800/725-8732; $80-100), provides simple but perfectly adequate accommodation - advance reservations are advised. Beyond Peggy's Cove Hwy 333 sticks closely to the coastline, meandering through a magnificently desolate landscape of stunted firs and cumbersome seashore boulders. Pull in at any of several places for a stroll along the shore or press on north through the gentler scenery that leads back to Hwy 103
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