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In 1813, the wide waters of Mahone Bay witnessed the destruction of the splendidly named American privateer the Young Teaser , which had been hounded into the bay by a British frigate. On board was a British deserter who knew what to expect if he was captured, so he blew his own ship up instead - a tribute to the floggers of the Royal Navy. Legend has it that the ghost of the blazing vessel reappears each year and neither is this the only strange story attached to the area. In 1795, three boys discovered the top of an underground shaft on tiny Oak Island , a low-lying, offshore islet a few kilometres west of Chester. The shaft, or "Money Pit", soon attracted the attentions of treasure hunters, who were convinced that this was where a vast horde of booty had been interred. At first the betting was on Drake, Kidd or Morgan, but present favourites include the Templars and even the Rosicrucians. No treasure has ever been found, but the diggings became so dangerous that the island's owners have closed it to the public; if you go, you can only get to the chain at the start of the causeway. Just 25km west of Chester lies the village of MAHONE BAY , whose waterfront is dominated by three adjacent church towers, which combine to create one of the region's most famous views. There's not much else to the place, though you could drop by the Settlers' Museum , 578 Main St (mid-May to Aug Tues-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat & Sun 1-5pm; free), for a look at its period furniture and early nineteenth-century ceramics. You can also have a bite to eat at the Market at Mahone Bay , beside the crossroads marking the centre of the village, which sells fresh local produce and superb sandwiches. Another option is the first-rate Mimi's Ocean Grill , a five- to ten-minute walk south at 662 Main St (tel 624-1342; May-Oct), where they serve up delicious lunches in attractive waterfront surroundings. Nearby, the four-roomed Heart's Desire B&B , 686 Main St (tel 624-8470; $60-80), has bay views and occupies a large and well-tended Victorian shipbuilder's house.
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