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From Louisbourg, it's a dreary 20-kilometre thrash north then west along highways 22 and 4 back to the Canso causeway. Instead, if you have the time, leave Hwy 4 west of Sydney and take Hwy 216 over the hills and along a slender arm of Bras d'Or Lake to IONA , a remote hamlet where many of the inhabitants speak Gaelic. Iona is also home to the Highland Village (daily: June to early July & late Aug to mid-Oct 9am-6pm; early July to late Aug 9am-8pm; $4), a modest collection of old pioneer buildings brought here from all over Cape Breton. The views from the museum, over the lake, are, however, quite delightful - as they are from the nearby Highland Heights Inn (tel 725-2360 or 1-800/660-8122, www.highlandheightsinn.com ; $80-100; late May to mid-Oct), a smart modern place with thirty well-appointed, motel-style rooms. Iona is 13km - and a five-minute ferry ride - from Hwy 105 (Exit 6) between Baddeck and the Canso causeway
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