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Just up the hill from the Canso causeway is the Port Hastings Visitor Information Centre (daily: mid-May to June & Sept to mid-Oct 9am-5pm; July & Aug 8.30am-8.30pm; tel 625-4201), where you can get your bearings and make advance room reservations on all of Cape Breton Island. From here it's about 45km on Hwy 105 (the Trans-Canada) through low, forested hills to the hamlet of IRON MINES , overlooking a small inlet at the western limit of Bras d'Or Lake - a pleasant foretaste of the splendours beyond. From Iron Mines, it's a further 30km to the Cabot Trail , which begins - at Hwy 105 (Exit 7) - by weaving its way northwest over the hills before slipping along the Margaree River Valley , whose soft, green landscapes are framed by bulging hills. The road veers north at the hamlet of MARGAREE FORKS for more valley views and then pushes on to the coast at MARGAREE HARBOUR , 50km from the Trans-Canada. This is handsome scenery indeed - all rolling fields and wooded hills - and there's a great place to stay here too - the Normaway Inn (tel 248-2987 or 1-800/565-9463, normaway@atcon.com ; mid-June to late Oct), 4km off the Cabot Trail along Egypt Road - and 28km from Hwy 105. Deep in the countryside, the inn occupies a tastefully maintained 1920s farmhouse and stands in its own estate. There are nine rooms in the main lodge ($80-100) and nineteen one- and two-bedroomed cabins ($100-125), mostly with wood stoves. The inn has contacts with local ghillies, so you can try your hand at fishing, and it also hosts folk-music concerts and serves a delicious evening meal by prior reservation.
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