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Directly west of the Big Muddy, accessible along Hwy 18, the Grasslands National Park is predominantly mixed-grass prairie, a flat, bare badlands landscape broken up by splendid coulees, buttes and river valleys - notably the wide ravine edging the Frenchman River in the western block. Far from the moderating influence of the oceans, the area has a savage climate, with an average low in January of -22°C and temperatures that soar to 40°C in summer. Even so, this terrain is inhabited by many species that are adapted to cope with the shortage of water, from flora such as prairie grasses, greasewood, rabbit brush, sagebrush and different types of cacti, to fauna like the graceful pronghorn antelope, the rattlesnake and Canada's only colonies of black-tailed prairie dog. In 1994, one of only thirteen Tyrannosaurus Rex skeletons in the world was discovered 40km south of the 695-strong town of EASTEND , 150km west of the park. The T-Rex was named Scotty, after the bottle of scotch its discoverers consumed in celebration, and there is now a swish $3.4 million T-Rex Interpretive Centre on the gravel Grid Road no.614 1km north of town (May-Sept daily 9am-5pm; Oct-April Mon-Fri 9am-noon & 1-5pm, Sat & Sun 11am-4pm; $3; tel 295-4009) - the place to hit if you're travelling with children or suffer from dinomania. Well-informed guides take you around the museum to view Scotty's bones and serrated teeth as each tiny fragment is identified in order to piece the skeleton together. Other real and replica fossils - including prehistoric poo - and bones from prehistoric mammals are on display whilst fun hands-on exhibits, beneath murals of T-Rex, allow you to "arm-wrestle" the beast and examine vertebrae. A life-size replica of Scotty's skeleton is expected to be on view this year. If you're keen on the prehistory of the area, you may want to join one of the Dinocountry tours (tel 295-4009), which depart from the centre to visit a fossil quarry where you can watch paleontologists unearthing fossils (July & Aug daily at 9am, noon & 3pm; 3hr; $20). For a more hands-on experience there's an archeological site for dinosaur bones near Eastend, where you can dig yourself (July & Aug daily 8.30am; $50). In the town itself a museum and cultural centre with a small information centre located in the old theatre on Red Coat Drive (July & Aug daily 10am-8pm, mid-May to June by appointment tel 295-3375; $2), featuring paleontological exhibits and a pioneer log house from the early twentieth-century. If you want to base yourself in Eastend for a more thorough exploration of the park and the Frenchman River Valley, you could stay at the Riverside Motel , just west of town on Hwy 13 (tel 295-3630 or 295-3773; up to $40/$40-60), which also has camping on its grounds for $1, or at the basic but comfortable Cypress Hotel , 343 Red Coat Drive (tel 295-3505; up to $40) in the middle of town. For food Alleykatz , 115 Fir Ave, offers up coffees and bagels and has a gift shop that sells pottery made from the local white-clay. For something more substantial like hamburgers there's Jack's Cafe on Red Coat Drive. At present, Grasslands National Park consists of east and west sections separated by private ranches and farms, which the federal government eventually intends to buy, creating a single park stretching from Hwy 4 in the west to Hwy 2/18 in the east. The west section is both more scenic and accessible, its limited system of gravel tracks and roads cutting off from hwys 18 and 4, south and east of VAL MARIE . This tiny township houses the Grasslands National Park Reception Centre , at the junction of Hwy 4 and Centre Street (mid-May to Aug daily 8am-5pm; Sept to mid-May Mon-Fri 8am-noon & 1-4.30pm; tel 298-2257), whose rangers provide advice on weather and road conditions, hand out maps, arrange for guided or self-guided eco-tours, issue camping permits and give tips on animal-spotting and hiking. There are no campsites within the park, but camping is allowed within 1km of its roads - take a good supply of water, a stout pair of walking shoes, and a stick to sweep in front of you in tall grass or brush as a warning to rattlesnakes. Animal activity is at its height at dawn and dusk and during spring and autumn; whatever the season, you'll need a pair of binoculars. One of the best hikes is the one to the 70 Mile Butte, a massive flat-topped promontory that is the highest point of land in the region, rising 100m above the valley floor with wonderful views of the waving prairie grasslands all around. To get there, drive south of Val Marie on Hwy 4 and turn east at Butte Road and continue to the end of the road. While there is no marked trail, the way becomes obvious as you begin walking over the hills from the end of the road. Even just a couple of hours' walk will take you through exceptional country. The only places to stay in town are the Val Marie Hotel , 221 Centre St (tel 298-2007 or 298-2003, fax 298-4612; up to $40), with seven basic rooms, and a centrally located campsite (tel 298-2022; May-Oct), where sites cost $7-10. It won't take you long to find the town's only restaurant , the antiquated Rusty's Cafe at 217 Centre St.
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