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The site of the Metis's last stand - and the last place where Canadians fought against Canadians - Batoche National Historic Site (May-Sept daily 9am-5pm; $4) occupies a splendid site beside the east bank of the South Saskatchewan River, 90km from Saskatoon just off Provincial Hwy 225. At the entrance to the park, a visitor reception centre (tel 423-6227) has displays on the culture of the Metis and provides a detailed account of the rebellion, supplemented by a glossy brochure and an excellent 45-minute audiovisual presentation combining slides, spoken narration, music and tableaux of realistic mannequins. Behind the centre, the main footpath leads to a refurbished Catholic church and adjacent rectory, all that's left of the original village. A few minutes' walk away, in the cemetery perched above the river bank, memorials inscribed with the hoary commendation "a credit to his race" contrast with the rough chunk of rock that commemorates Riel's commander-in-chief Gabriel Dumont . A stern and ferocious man, Dumont insisted that he be buried standing up, so that he could enjoy a good view of the river. The church and cemetery are at the centre of the park's walking trails , which extend along the river bank in both directions. Roughly 1km to the south, there's a military graveyard, a Metis farmhouse and the remains of some rifle pits; about the same distance to the north, there's the site of the old ferry crossing, more rifle pits and the foundations of several Metis buildings. With a knowledge of the history, the park becomes an extremely evocative spot.
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