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WATERTON LAKES NATIONAL PARK , about 55km south of Fort Macleod, appears at first glance to be simply an addendum to the much larger Glacier National Park, which joins it across the United States border. Despite its modest size, however (just 523 square kilometres), it contains scenery - and trails - as stupendous as any of the bigger Canadian Rockies parks. In particular this is a great place to come for day-hikes, most of which - unlike equivalent walks in Banff and Jasper - can be easily accessed from the park's principal focus, Waterton Townsite (or Waterton). Founded in 1895, the park was relaunched in 1932 as an "International Peace Park" to symbolize the understated relationship between Canada and its neighbour. The two parks remain separate national enclaves. Though backpackers can cross the border without formalities, to drive from one to the other you have to exit the park and pass through immigration controls, as stringent as anywhere if you're not a national of either country. In a change to the practice of past years, a park permit is required between April and the end of September for all who enter the park: a day-pass is $4 (yearly $28), and group passes (2-10 people) cost $12 daily .
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