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Highway 43 out of Edmonton to Grande Prairie, and Hwy 2 thereafter, ambles through terminally unexceptional towns, hills and prairie scenery on its way west to Dawson Creek . It's a mind-numbing day's journey by car or bus (2 daily): bus connections run via Grande Prairie (2-4 daily), 463km from Edmonton, where you may wash up if you're forced to break your journey. Failing dismally to live up to its evocative name, GRANDE PRAIRIE 's unfocused sprawl is a legacy of having the luxury of unlimited space in which to build (the centre is a little nicer). The infocentre (daily June to early Sept 8.30am-8.30pm; tel 539-7688, www.city.grand-prairie.ab.ca ) is by Bear Creek Reservoir, off the main highway, which bypasses the main part of town to the west (it's staffed by volunteers, so hours may vary). Most of Grande Prairie's many motels are on the strip known as Richmond Avenue (100th Ave), which links the southern part of the highway bypass to downtown. All are vast affairs with bargain prices - the top-of-the-line is the Golden Inn Hotel , 11201-100th Ave (tel 539-6000 or 1-800/661-7954; $100-125), and one of the cheapest is the Lodge Motor Inn , 10909-100th Ave (tel 539-4700 or 1-800/661-7874; $60-80). For food , head for the Trax Dining Room , 11001-100th Ave (tel 532-0776), open early until late for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The bus depot is at 9918-121st St (tel 539-1111). One of Canada's ultimate cowboy bars , incidentally, has to be Kelly's Bar in the Sutherland Inn at Clairmont , immediately north of Grande Prairie. Owned by a Calgary Stampede chuck-wagon champion, it's the sort of place that has saddles for bar stools and serves up shooters in bull-semen collection tubes.
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