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Less compact an area than Lake O'Hara, the Yoho Valley and nearby Emerald Lake are far more accessible for casual visitors, and offer some great sights - the Takakkaw Falls in particular - and a variety of topnotch trails. Both areas were formerly used by the Cree to hide their women and children while the men crossed the mountains into Alberta to trade and hunt buffalo. The eradication of the buffalo herds, and the arrival of the railway in 1884, put paid to such ways. The lake was "discovered" by Tom Wilson, the same Canadian Pacific employee who first saw Lake Louise. He named it Emerald Lake after its colour. Now the lake and valley combine to form one of the Rockies' most important backpacking zones. Though popular and easily reached - access roads head north from the Trans-Canada to both the Emerald and Yoho valleys - the region is not, however, quite as crowded as its counterpart to the south. The scenery is equally mesmerizing, and if fewer of the trails are designed for day-hikes, many of them interlock so that you can tailor walks to suit your schedule or fitness . Most trails start from the end of the Yoho Valley Road at the Takakkaw Falls parking area; the road leaves the Trans-Canada about 5km east of Field (signed from the Kicking Horse campsite), a narrow and switchbacking route unsuitable for trailers and RVs and open in the summer only. It's 14km from the Trans-Canada to the parking area. The cascades' total 254-metre drop make them among the most spectacular road-accessible falls in the mountains: takakkaw is a Cree word roughly meaning "it is wonderful". The Whiskey Jack youth hostel , ideally placed just beyond the end of the Yoho Valley Road, 500m south of Takakkaw Falls, has room for 27 in three dorms (reservations tel 250/762-4122, www.hostellingintl.ca/alberta ; $15-19; mid-June to mid-Sept). Close by is the park-run Takakkaw Falls campsite with 35 unserviced sites ($13; mid-June to mid-Sept). Trails to the north lead to four further backcountry campsites, while the Alpine Club of Canada operates a members-only trail hut 8.5km north of Takakkaw Falls ($15); reservations are required - write to Box 1026, Banff, AB T0L 0C0, or call 250/762-4481. The Emerald Lake Road leaves the Trans-Canada about 2km west of Field and ends, 8km on, at the Emerald Lake Lodge (tel 250/343-6321 or 1-800/663-6336, www.crmr.com ; $240 and up), which has a restaurant where walking boots are certainly not in order, and a less formal bar for drinks and snacks. If you want to stay, advance reservations are essential and prices are steep - between $300 and $400 in high season, less outside summer. Like the Yoho Valley Road, this road offers access to easy strolls and a couple of good day- or half-day hikes .
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