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Backed up against the Continental Divide at the eastern edge of the park, Lake O'Hara is one of the Rockies' finest all-round enclaves - staggering scenery, numerous lakes, and an immense diversity of alpine and subalpine terrain. It's a great base for concentrated hiking: you could easily spend a fortnight exploring the well-constructed trails that strike out from the central lodge and campsite. The setting is matchless, the lake framed by two of the peaks that also overlook Lake Louise across the ridge - mounts Lefroy (3423m) and Victoria (3464m). The one problem is access , which is severely restricted to safeguard the mountain flora and fauna. To get there, turn off the Trans-Canada onto Hwy 1A (3.2km west of the Continental Divide), cross the railway and turn right onto the gravel road leading to the parking area (1km). This fire road continues all the way up to the lake (13km), but it's not open to general traffic (or bikes - no bikes are allowed on the road or anywhere else in the Lake O'Hara region). Getting up here, therefore, is quite a performance, but worth it if you want to hike some of the continent's most stunning scenery. Anybody can walk the 13km up the road, or the more picturesque Cataract Brook Trail (12.9km), which runs roughly parallel to the road, but a quota system applies for the bus up here and the campsite at the end; and, after 13km, of course, you'd need to be superfit to get in any meaningful walking in the area where it matters. Aim instead for the special bus from the car park up to the lake, but note that priority is given to those with reservations or those with reservations for the lodge, campsite or Alpine Club huts. Reservations for bus and campsite can be made three months in advance by telephone only (March 20-April 18 Mon-Fri 8am-noon; April 19 to mid-June Mon-Fri 8am-4pm; mid-June to Aug daily 8am-4pm; Sept reduced hours; tel 343-6433). If you're going for the day , your only feasible buses leave at 8.30am and 10.30am, and the maximum number in a party is six. If you want to use the campsite you have to have dates ready (up to a maximum of four nights), state the number of people, the number of sites required (maximum of two per party, one tent per site) and your preferred bus time (first and second choices from 8.30am, 10.30am, 4.30pm or 7.30pm). The reservation fee for bus (day-use or camp) is $10 and the return bus fare $12, payable by credit card over the phone. Cancellation must be made to an answering machine (tel 343-6344); you forfeit your booking fee, and you can't just cancel the first day of several you booked to camp and expect to come later. Cancellations made less than three days in advance mean you lose the booking fee, half the bus fare and, if you're camping, the first night's campsite fee. Cancel after 4pm on the day before your trip and you lose everything. If all this sounds like Kafka has hit the Rockies, remember the park does merit attention, but if you don't manage to plan in advance there are arrangements for stand-bys : six day-use places are available daily and five sites are kept available each night. You must reserve at the Field park-information centre in person the day before you wish to take the bus and/or camp: these places are not available over the phone, and you'll have to get to the centre early. To stay in one of the 23 rooms at Lake O'Hara Lodge (tel 250/343-6418, www.lakeoharalodge.com ; $240 and up; mid-June to late Sept & Feb to mid-April), you need to reserve weeks in advance and be prepared to part with a large amount of money. Out of season you can make bookings by post to Box 55, Lake Louise, AB T0L 1E0, or call 250/678-4110.
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