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If anything, the Bow Valley Parkway boasts more scenic grandeur than the Trans-Canada - which is saying something - and offers more distractions if you're taking your time: several trails, campsites, plus plenty of accommodation choices and one excellent eating option. The largest concentration of sightseers is likely to be found at the Merrent turn-off, enjoying fantastic views of the Bow Valley and the railway winding through the mountains. If you have the time, therefore, the Parkway is the preferable route, and you should budget some time to walk one of the trails en route, in particular the easy but impressive Johnston Canyon Trail . En route, some of the various viewpoints and signed pull-offs deserve more attention than others. Around 8km down the highway, look out for the Backswamp Viewpoint , where views one-way extend to the mountains and the other across a river swamp area where you might see beaver, muskrat, ospreys and other birds , as well as the common butterwort, a purple-flowered carnivorous plant whose diet consists largely of marsh insects. In winter Backswamp Viewpoint is also known locally as one of the most likely areas to spot wolves; at other times of the year you might also see bighorn sheep or mountain goats on the mountain slopes above. Three kilometres further on you come to Muleshoe Picnic Area , also noted for its birds and wildfowl . Some of the area around shows signs of having been burnt in forest fires, though these areas were deliberately torched by the park authorities to encourage fresh undergrowth and the return of wildlife excluded from more mature forests . Eleven kilometres on, a 400-metre trail takes you to a lovely little lake once known as Lizard Lake after the long-toed salamanders that thrived here. These were eaten when the lake was stocked with trout, and the name's now been changed to Pilot Lake. Three kilometres beyond is the trailhead for the Johnston Canyon Trail , deservedly the most popular in the area, and three kilometres beyond that Moose Meadows , where - name notwithstanding - you'll be mighty lucky to see any moose: habitat changes have forced them out. If you're a bird-watcher , the Parkway is also the route for you. Johnston Canyon is one of only two known breeding sites in Alberta of the black swift - you may see the birds flitting back to their nests at dusk - and is also a breeding place for American dippers, buxom grey birds that have the ability to walk along stream beds underwater and habitually nest below waterfalls. Elsewhere on the Parkway the various pull-offs give you the opportunity to spot species associated with montane forest and meadow zones, notably at the Muleshoe Picnic Area, 21km southeast of Castle Junction, where you might spot western tanagers, pileated woodpeckers and orange-crowned warblers. At various points on the Bow River along the entire run from Banff to Lake Louise you may spot harlequin ducks on the river's islands and gravel bars, as well as spotted sandpipers and common mergansers. If you want to stay, the road's accommodation possibilities make a more rural alternative to Banff and Lake Louise, and are close enough to both to serve as a base if you have transport; as ever, you should book rooms well in advance. Four lodges are spaced more or less equally en route and, though expensive, they may have room when Lake Louise's hotels are stretched. First is the Johnston Canyon Resort , 26km west of Banff and close to the trail that leads to the canyon (tel 762-2971, www.johnstoncanyon.com ; $100-125; mid-May to late Sept), which consists of rustic cabins (some with fireplaces and some with kitchenettes), a shop, garage, tennis court and basic groceries. Next come the chalets, laundry and grocery store of Castle Mountain Chalets , 32km west of Banff near Castle Junction (tel 762-3868, www.castlemountain.com ; $175-240; year-round): the log chalets for four with kitchenettes and fireplaces are more expensive, but the best options of all here are the delightful and newly built deluxe cabins for four, five or six people (complete with full kitchens, dishwashers and jacuzzis). Some 5km south of Hwy 1 on Hwy 93 to Radium (27km from Banff) is Storm Mountain Lodge (tel 762-4155; $125-175; end of May to late Sept) with highly appealing log cabins. Finally there's Baker Creek Guest Lodge & Bistro , 12km east of Lake Louise (tel 522-3761, www.bakercreek.com ; $125-175; year-round), with 25 one- and two-room log cabins and lodge rooms for between one and six people: there's also an excellent restaurant here that comes with local recommendations and new annexe with eight smart motel-type rooms. By far the least expensive possibility is the Parkway's charming youth hostel , Castle Mountain Hostel , 1.5km east of Castle Junction (tel 762-2367 or 762-4122, banff@hostellingintl.ca ; members $13, nonmembers $17; up to $40; year-round but closed Wed). You should call in advance, or better still book ahead through the hostel at Banff (tel 762-4122). Three national park campsites provide excellent camping retreats. In order of distance from Banff these are: the very popular 140-pitch Johnston Canyon ($17; mid-May to mid-Sept), 25km from Banff is the best equipped, and has full facilities including showers and wheelchair access; after that comes the 40-pitch Castle Mountain , 32km from Banff near Castle Junction ($13; late June to early Sept) and with no facilities beyond water and flush toilets; and then the similarly simple 89-pitch Protection Mountain , 5km north of Castle Junction (same details). An additional $4 fee is payable at all three if you wish to use firewood.
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