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Unlike the Cave and Basin, there's no problem with swimming in the Upper Hot Springs , 4.5km from the town centre on Mountain Avenue, and easily visited after a trip on the Sulphur Mountain Gondola (mid-May to mid-Sept daily 9am-11pm; mid-Sept to mid-May Mon-Thurs & Sun 10am-10pm, Fri & Sat 10am-11pm; $7 mid-May to mid-Oct, $5.50 mid-Oct to mid-May; lockers, towel and swimming costumes - 1920 or 1990 style - rental extra; tel 762-1515 or 762-2500 for spa bookings). First developed in 1901, the springs were laid out in their present form in 1932 and completely renovated in 1996. At 38°C, the water in the outdoor pool provides a steamy temptation, but it receives a lot of traffic from people coming off the Sulphur Mountain Gondola. They also leave a fairly pungent sulphurous aftersmell. You can sign up for relaxing therapeutic massages ($45) to complement your swim, while adults can make use of the Hot Springs Spa for aromatherapy wrap ($32), steam room, massage, plunge pool and steam and plunge (from $15). Call for details and appointments. If you don't want all this pampering there's a good poolside restaurant with outside terrace, fresh juice bar and hot and cold snacks.
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