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The excellent and eclectic collection of the Glenbow Museum is, the Stampede apart, the only sight for which you'd make a special journey to Calgary (May-Oct Mon-Wed, Thurs-Fri 9am-9pm, Sat & Sun 9am-5pm; closed Mon Nov-April; $8; tel 268-4100, www.glenbow.org ). Although it's opposite the Calgary Tower at 130-9th Ave SE, the main entrance is hidden alongside the Skyline Plaza complex a short way east down the street (there's another entrance from the Stephen Avenue Mall). Built in 1966, the no-expense-spared museum is a testament to sound civic priorities and the cultural benefits of booming oil revenues. Its three floors of displays make a fine introduction to the heritage of the Canadian west. The permanent collection embraces the eclectic approach, starting with a section devoted to ritual and sacred art from around the world and an art gallery tracing the development of western Canadian indigenous art. Better still is the European art depicting the culture of aboriginal peoples. Two outlooks prevail - the romantic nineteenth-century image of the Indian as "noble savage", and the more forward-looking analysis of artists from the same period such as Paul Kane, a painter determined to make accurate representations of aboriginal peoples and cultures before their assimilation by white expansion. The second floor runs the gamut of western Canadian history and heritage, including an outstanding exhibit on First Nations or aboriginal peoples . In the treaties section, hidden in a corner almost as if in shame, the museum text skates over the injustices with a glossary of simple facts. On display are the original documents that many chiefs were confused into signing, believing they were peace treaties, when in fact the contracts gave away all land rights to those who drafted them in deliberately incomprehensible legalese. All facets of native crafts are explored on this floor, as well, with stunning displays of carving, costumes and jewellery; whilst their emphasis is on the original inhabitants of Alberta - with a special new display on the Blackfoot - the collection also forays into the Inuit and the Metis - the latter being the offspring of native women and white fur traders, and the most marginalized group of all. Following a historical chronology, the floor moves on to exhibits associated with the fur trade, Northwest Rebellion, the Canadian Pacific, pioneer life, ranching, cowboys, oil and wheat - each era illustrated by interesting and appropriate artefacts of the time - adding up to a glut of period paraphernalia that includes a terrifying exhibit of frontier dentistry, an absurdly comprehensive display of washing machines, and a solitary 1938 bra. The eccentric top floor kicks off with a pointless display of Calgary Stampede merchandising, before moving on to a huge collection of military paraphernalia and a dazzling display of gems and minerals , said to be among the world's best. These exhibits are mainly for genre enthusiasts, though the gems are worth a look if only to see some of the extraordinary and beautiful things that come out of the drab mines that fuel so much of western Canada's economy.
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