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The Clywedog Valley , which forms an arc around the western and southern suburbs of Wrexham, was the crucible of industrial success in the northern Welsh borders during the eighteenth century. Iron mining and smelting were the principle industries, but as the Industrial Revolution forged ahead, water power harnessed from the Clywedog became less important, and factories moved closer to their raw materials, leaving the valley barely disturbed. A series of former industrial sites - ironworks, lead mines and the like - are now linked by the seven-mile-long Clywedog Trail . It's all a bit heavy on packaged heritage, but if you're interested, pick up a leaflet from the Wrexham tourist office.

Despite the closure of the ironworks and the consequent drop in demand, coal continued to be mined in the valley until 1986. After World War II, coal mines were tunnelled under the nearby stately home of Erddig (April-Sept Mon-Wed, Sat & Sun: house noon-5pm, gardens 11am-6pm; Oct both close 1hr earlier; full tour GBP6, gardens and outbuildings only GBP2.50; NT), two miles south of Wrexham, adding subsidence to the troubles of an already decaying seventeenth-century building. The house has now been restored to its 1922 appearance, but it isn't particularly distinguished.

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While the State Rooms upstairs have their share of fine furniture and portraits - including one by Gainsborough - the real interest lies in the quarters of the servants, whose lives were fully documented by their unusually benevolent masters. Eighteenth- and early nineteenth-century portraits of staff are still on display in the Servants' Hall, and each has a verse written by one of the Yorkes. You can also see the blacksmith's shop, lime yard, stables, laundry, kitchen and still-used bakehouse.


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