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Along with Laugharne in Carmarthenshire, NEW QUAY (Cei Newydd), seven miles from Aberaeron, lays claim to being the original Llareggub in Dylan Thomas' Under Milk Wood . Certainly, it has the little tumbling streets, prim Victorian terraces, cobbled stone harbour and air of dreamy isolation that Thomas evoked in his play but, in the height of summer, the quiet isolation can be hard to find. Although there is a singular lack of excitement in New Quay, it is a truly pleasant base for good beaches, walking, surfing, eating and drinking. The pretty harbour and small, curving beach are backed by a higgledy-piggledy line of multi-coloured shops and houses. The beachfront streets comprise the lower town - the more traditionally "seaside" part of New Quay, full of cafes, pubs and beach shops. Tucked away down the slipway above the beach is the interesting Marine Wildlife Centre (April-Sept daily 10am-5pm; donation requested), with some good displays on the dolphins, seals and sea birds of Cardigan Bay. Sharply inclined streets lead to the residential upper town , with some delightful views over the sweeping shoreline below. The northern beach soon gives way to a rocky headland, New Quay Head , where an invigorating path steers along the top of the the aptly named Bird Rock . Buses stop on Park Street, from where it's a walk down any of the steep streets to the seafront, where you'll find the tourist office , centrally located at the junction of Church Street and Wellington Place (daily: July & Aug 10am-6pm; April-June & Sept 10am-5pm; tel 01545/560865). Accommodation includes cheap B&Bs at Elvor , on George Street, the main road to Llanarth, in the upper town (tel 01545/560554; GBP40-50); The Moorings , on Glanmor Terrace, near the beach (tel 01545/560375; GBP40-50); and the chintzy luxury of Ffynnon Feddyg , out towards Cei Bach on the eastern edge of town (tel 01545/560222; GBP40-50; March-Oct). The  © 2003 by Rough Guides Ltd. as trustee for its Authors. Published by Rough Guides. All rights reserved. Rough Guides name is a trademark of Rough Guides Ltd. Buy the book here!
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nearest campsite is the Neuadd (tel 01545/560709), fifteen minutes' walk away, behind the Penrhiwllan Inn , at the top of the hill on the way to Synod Inn. New Quay contains innumerable cheap, chips-with-everything cafes , amongst which the Mariner's Cafe , by the harbour wall, is a sure bet. Most of the pubs serve food, the best being the Seahorse , Margaret Street, and the Wellington , by the tourist office on the seafront.
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