ABERAERON , sixteen miles along the coast from Aberystwyth, is a handsome place, even if it is almost unique amongst the Ceredigion resorts for being on an unappealing stretch of coastline. Nonetheless, the town, with its pastel-shaded houses encasing a large harbour inlet, has a rare unity of design, the result of a complete nineteenth-century rebuilding by the Reverend Alban Gwynne. He spent his way through his wife's inheritance by dredging the Aeron Estuary and constructing a formally planned town around it as a new port for mid-Wales.
The A487 runs straight through the heart of town, down Bridge Street and past the large Alban Square , named after the rich rector. On the north side of the town bridge, a grid of streets stretches down to a neat line of ordered, colourful houses on the seafront. Right on the harbour, the Hive on the Quay (late May to mid-Sept daily 10am-5pm; GBP1.50) combines an exhibition of bees with chances to sample honey products, including delicious ice cream. Quay Parade runs down the side of the seafront past some of the old fisherman's houses and pubs to the fairly humdrum Sea Aquarium (Easter-Oct daily 10am-5pm; GBP3.95).
A trip to the exquisite kitchen gardens at Llanerchaeron , three miles east of Aberaeron (April-Oct Thurs-Sun 11am-5pm; GBP2; NT), makes an excellent excursion. Once an integrated smallholding typical of this region, the estate is currently undergoing restoration; occasional open days allow access to the Nash-designed main house.
Aberaeron's tourist office is on Quay Parade, the seafront road (June-Aug daily 10am-6pm, Sept-May Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; tel 01545/570602). There are two town-centre B&B s overlooking the harbour on Cadwgan Place: Coedmor (tel 01545/571615; GBP40-50) and the lovely Arosfa (tel 01545/570120, ; GBP40-50). A B&B that's better than most small hotels can be found nearby on South Road: the
neo-colonial Hazeldene (tel 01545/570652, ; GBP40-50). The nearest local campsite is the Aeron Coast , on the A487 just north of town (tel 01545/570349). For food , there's the moderate Arosfa , 8 Cadwgan Place, for traditional and new Welsh specialities, and an excellent fish restaurant at the Hive on the Quay . Good seafood, together with some imaginative French cuisine, can be found at the Harbourmaster pub, by the tourist office.
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HOLIDAYS - ABERAERON TOURIST INFORMATION Cycling; Events; Travel; Walking; More information... Request a brochure ... Aberaeron is one of Wales' very first "planned" towns, the idea of establishing a port at the Aeron ... http://www.tourism.ceredigion.gov.uk
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