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An excellent fine-weather excursion is to the Rhine falls ( www.rheinfall.ch ), Europe's largest waterfalls, which tumble 3km west of the northern Swiss town of SCHAFFHAUSEN . They are truly magnificent, not so much for their height (a mere 23m) as for their impressive breadth (150m) and the sheer drama of the place, with spray rising in a cloud of rainbows above the forested banks. The turreted castle Schloss Laufen on the south bank completes the spectacle. Be here on August 1, Switzerland's national day, for a famous fireworks display. Zurich's 9-Uhr-Tagespass (valid Mon-Fri after 9am, Sat & Sun all day; Sfr20; press *141 on the ticket machines) covers all city transport as well as the train-ride north to Schloss Laufen station (change at Winterthur). Damp steps lead down from the castle souvenir shop (Sfr1) to platforms at the water's edge, where the falls roar inches from your nose. In summer, the best views are from daredevil boats, which scurry about in the spray (Sfr5-7).
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