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You shouldn't leave Luzern without taking a trip on the lake , Switzerland's most beautiful and dramatic by far, the thickly wooded slopes rising sheer from the water, bays and peninsulas giving constantly changing views. A dense web of boat routings is run by SGV (tel 041/367 67 67, www.lakelucerne.ch ; IR half-price; ER & SP free), and the regional tourist office also has more details (tel 041/418 40 80, www.centralswitzerland.ch ). Of the lakeside towns, VITZNAU is the base-station of the oldest rack-railway in the world, serving the majestic Mount Rigi (IR no discount, ER & SP 25 percent discount; www.rigi.ch ); and KEHRSITEN has a funicular up to Burgenstock , from where a twenty-minute clifftop walk brings you to Europe's fastest outdoor lift, swishing you in seconds to the Hammetschwand summit. From ALPNACHSTAD , the steepest rack-railway in the world climbs to the top of Mount Pilatus (IR half-price; SP/ER 30/35 percent discount; www.pilatus.com ). Taking a leisurely boat ride to the far point of the lake at FLUELEN (3hr) connects with mainline trains running west to Luzern and Basel, north to Zurich and south to Lugano and Milan.
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