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From just before Stechelberg, Schilthornbahn cable cars leap the valley's west wall to reach the quiet hamlet of GIMMELWALD , with the popular self-catering Mountain Hostel (tel 033/855 17 04, www.gimmelwald-news.ch ; GBP5-10/$8-16), then rise further to MURREN , another endearing car-free village which has managed to retain its atmosphere of isolation (in the off season at least). Murren is also accessible from directly opposite Lauterbrunnen station via the BLM Bergbahn - a steep funicular to Grutschalp and a spectacular little cliff-edge train from there (IR no discount; ER 25-percent discount; SP free). Whichever way you arrive, it's worth it for the views. From Murren, the valley floor is 800m straight down, and the panorama of peaks filling the sky is dazzling. The sports centre houses the tourist office (Mon-Fri 9am-noon & 1-6.30pm, Thurs until 8.30pm; July-Sept & Dec-April also Sat & Sun 1-5.30pm; tel 033/856 86 86, www.wengen-muerren.ch ). For accommodation , Eiger (tel 033/855 35 35; GBP10-15/$16-24) is outside the train station, while at the other end of the village, near the cable-car station, is Regina (tel 033/855 42 42; GBP15-20/$24-32). The cable car continues from Murren on a breathtaking 20min ride up to the 2970m summit of the SCHILTHORN ( www.schilthorn.ch ), where you can enjoy exceptional panoramic views and sip cocktails in the revolving Piz Gloria summit restaurant, featured in the James Bond film On Her Majesty's Secret Service . Schilthornbahn prices , compared to the Jungfraujoch ride, are a bargain. From Stechelberg, a round-trip is Sfr89, from Murren Sfr60 (IR no discount; ER 25 percent discount; SP free to Murren, then 25 percent discount). Make the trip before 9am, after 3.30pm, or any time in May or October, and these drop to Sfr67/45 (discounts still apply). If you stay overnight in Murren, ask your hotel for a free voucher to exchange for breakfast in the Schilthorn's panoramic restaurant.
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