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It's worth venturing beyond Slussen's traffic interchange for the heights of Sodermalm 's crags, an area largely neglected by most visitors to the city. The perched buildings are vaguely forbidding, but get beyond the speeding main roads skirting the island and a lively and surprisingly green area unfolds - one that's still, at heart, emphatically working-class. By bus, take the #48 from Norrmalm getting off at Bondegatan or #53 from Tegelbacken to Folkungagatan, or use the T-bana and get off at either Slussen or Medborgarplatsen (on Gotagatan). Walking, you reach the island over a double bridge from Gamla Stan, to the south of which is the rewarding Stadsmuseet (Tues-Sun 11am-5pm, Thurs until 7/9pm; 40kr), hidden in a basement courtyard, which houses a set of collections relating to the city's history as a sea port and industrial centre. Nearby, take a look at the Katarina kyrka , rebuilt in Renaissance style in the eighteenth century. On this site the victims of the so-called "Stockholm Blood Bath" were buried in 1520, the betrayed nobility of Sweden who had opposed King Christian II's Danish invasion and were burned as heretics outside the city walls. Whether you stop in Sodermalm or not, the buses and T-bana trains come this way for the island of Langholmen , just off its western side. There's a popular beach here, which gets packed in the summer, a chance to swim and plenty of shady walks through the island's trees, as well as the city's best hostel . You don't have to come through Sodermalm to reach Langholmen - though if you do, get off the T-bana at Hornstull and follow the signs.
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