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Breakfast ( frukost ) is invariably a help-yourself buffet - served in most hostels and some restaurants for around 50kr-70kr, and free in hotels - consisting of juice, cereals, bread, boiled eggs, jams, salami, tea and coffee on even the most limited tables. Something to watch out for is the jug of filmjolk next to the ordinary milk, a thicker, sour milk for pouring on cereals. Coffee in Sweden is usually of the filter variety and can be bitter. It's often free after the first cup. Tea is weak as a rule but costs around the same - 10-15kr. For snacks and lighter meals the choice expands. A Gatukok (street kitchen) or Korvstand (hot-dog stall) will serve a selection of hot dogs, burgers, chips and the like for around 30kr. Burger bars are just about everywhere now and a hefty burger and chips meal will set you back a shade over 50kr: the local Clockburger is cheaper than McDonald's and Burger King, but all are generally the source of the cheapest (and weakest) coffee in town. If you can afford a little extra, it's far better to hit the coffee shops ( konditori ), which always display a range of freshly baked pastries and cakes. They're not particularly cheap (coffee and cake for 20-35kr), but are generally good, also serving smorgasar , open sandwiches piled high with an elaborate variety of toppings for 30-40kr a time.

Eating in a restaurant is cheapest at lunchtime, when most places offer something called the Dagens Ratt at 50-60kr, often the only affordable way to sample real Swedish cooking. Served between 11am and 2pm, it consists of a main dish with bread and salad, sometimes a drink, and coffee. Other cheapish places for lunch are cafeterias , usually self-service with cheaper snacks and hot meals; large department stores and train stations are good places to look. More expensive but good for a blowout are restaurants and hotels that put out the smorgasbord at lunchtime for 150-200kr, where you help yourself to unlimited portions of herring, smoked and fresh salmon, hot and cold meats, eggs, potatoes, salad, cheese and fruit. A variation on the buffet theme is the Sillbricka , a specialist buffet for around the same price where the dishes are all based on cured and marinated herring.

If you don't eat the set lunch, meals in restaurants, especially at dinner ( middag ), can be expensive: 150-200kr for a three-course

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affair, plus 30-50kr for a beer and at least 100kr for a bottle of house plonk. Pizzerias and Chinese restaurants offer better value. Large pizzas cost 40-60kr, usually with free salad and bread, and the price is generally the same at lunch and dinner. Chinese restaurants nearly always offer a set lunch for around 50kr, though they're pricier in the evening. Also widespread are Middle Eastern kebab takeaways and cafes, where you'll get something fairly substantial in pitta bread for around 30kr.


swedish apartheid

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12/2/2008 6:35:49 AM