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Travelling on the Inlandsbanan, you may well spend the night at STORUMAN , five hours north of Ostersund and ten hours from Gallivare. The tourist office (mid-June to mid-Aug Mon-Fri 9am-8pm, Sat & Sun 11am-5pm; rest of year Mon-Fri 9am-5pm; tel 0951/105 00, entrelappland@swipnet.se ) is just to the right of the train station, and will give you details of the excellent mountain hiking to be had around the town. There's a hostel in the same building as the tourist office (tel 0951/777 00; GBP5-10/$8-16). SORSELE is the next major stop on the Inlandsbanan, a pint-sized town that became a cause celebre among conservationists in Sweden, pushing the government to abandon its plans to regulate the flow of the River Vindel here by building a hydroelectric station. It remains wild, untouched and seething with rapids, with a campsite on the river bank. There's also a hostel (tel 0952/100 10; GBP5-10/$8-16), a small place open from mid-June to August. ARVIDSJAUR contains Sweden's oldest surviving Sami village, dating from the late eighteenth century, a huddle of houses that was once the centre of a great winter market. They were not meant to be permanent homes, but rather a meeting place during festivals, and the last weekend in August is still taken up by a great celebratory shindig. There's a cosy private hostel at Vastra Skolgatan 9 (tel 0960/124 13; GBP5-10/$8-16), and Camp Gielas , beside one of the lakes 1km south of the station, has cabins from 375kr. A couple of hours north of Arvidsjaur the Inlandsbanan finally crosses the Arctic Circle , signalled by a bout of whistle-blowing as the train pulls up. Painted white rocks curve away over the hilly ground, a crude but popular representation of the Circle.
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