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Canarian restaurants tend to serve simple meals (from around ?6 per main dish) and can broadly be divided into those by the coast serving mainly fish and seafood, and inland establishments which tend to specialize in meat dishes. Wherever you chose to go, eating out is good value and even the island's top restaurants you're unlikely to spend much more than ?24 a head, including wine.

Fish and seafood restaurants will typically have a large range - including tuna, bream, eel, pollack, comber, sea perch, hake and numerous shellfish, particularly lobster - though availability will often depend on the luck of the local catch and the season. A traditional Canarian fish dish is zarzuela , a stew that typically takes at least half an hour to prepare. Fish and seafood paellas are also common on the islands. Specialities at upland restaurants include the rich conejo en salemorejo - marinated rabbit in a garlicky sauce - and goat ( cabra ) - particularly in January and February when local kids are slaughtered.

Both fish and meat is generally served grilled and most frequently with papas arrugadas , unpeeled new potatoes boiled dry in salt water. Occasionally vegetables - or a pitiful side salad - are served along with the potatoes, but the presence of mojo can virtually be guaranteed. Mojo is a garlic dressing that comes in two varieties: rojo (red) or verde (green). Rojo tends to be a spicy chilli, oil and vinegar mix, while verde is milder and contains coriander. To many Canarians the quality of its mojo is the measure of a restaurant.

Eating in traditional Canarian bars and restaurants is not an easy task for vegetarians . While there's

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usually something to eat, it usually involves egg-based staples, such as omelettes, and most vegetable dishes are generally off-limits, as pieces of fish and meat are often added to make them more interesting. Consequently a useful phrase is: Soy vegetariano. Hay algo sin carne? ("I'm a vegetarian. Is there anything without meat?") - to which you should add y sin mariscos ("and without seafood") and y sin jamon ("and without ham") to be safe.


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12/2/2008 4:49:39 AM