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GRACIA is the most satisfying of Barcelona's peripheral districts, and given its concentration of bars, clubs and restaurants, the one you're most likely to visit. Beginning at the top of the Passeig de Gracia, and bordered roughly by c/Balmes to the west and the streets above the Sagrada Familia to the east, it has been a fully fledged suburb of the city since the nineteenth century - traditionally home to arty and political types, students and the intelligentsia, but also still supporting a very real local population (including one of the city's biggest Romany communities) which lends Gracia an attractive, no-frills, small-town atmosphere. Come here to eat and drink by all means, but also take time to stroll through the streets and squares, and get the feel of a neighbourhood that - unlike the Eixample - still feels like a neighbourhood. Gracia is close enough to walk to if you wish - around a thirty-minute hike from Placa de Catalunya. Getting there by public transport means taking the FGC train from Placa de Catalunya to Gracia station, or buses #22 or #24 from Placa de Catalunya up Gran de Gracia; or take the metro to either Diagonal, to the south, or Fontana, to the north. From any of these, it's around a 500-metre walk to Gracia's two central squares, Placa del Sol and Placa Rius i Taulet, in the network of streets off the eastern side of c/Gran de Gracia.
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