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The mountain of Montserrat, with its weirdly shaped crags of rock, its monastery and its ruined hermitage caves, stands just 40km northwest of Barcelona, off the road to Lleida. It is one of the most spectacular of all Spain's natural sights, a saw-toothed outcrop left exposed to erosion when the inland sea that covered this area around 25 million years ago was drained by progressive uplifts of the earth's crust. Legends hang easily upon it. Fifty years after the birth of Christ, Saint Peter is said to have deposited an image of the Virgin carved by Saint Luke in one of the mountain caves, and another tale makes this the spot in which the knight Parsifal discovered the Holy Grail. Inevitably the monastery and mountain are no longer remote; in fact they're ruthlessly exploited as a tourist trip from the Costa Brava. But don't be put off - the place itself is still magical and you can avoid the crowds by striking out onto the mountainside, along well-signposted paths, to potent and deserted hermitages
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