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The three most beautiful churches in Avila - the cathedral, San Vicente, and the Monasterio de Santo Tomas - are less directly associated with its most famous resident. Around the cathedral and Santo Tome el Viejo (just outside the northeast corner of the walls), there is also a scattering of impressive Renaissance mansions - none of them are open to visitors but they give a glimpse of old Castilian wealth in their coats of arms and decorative facades. Avila's Catedral (Mon-Fri 9.30am-6.30pm, Sat 9.30am-7pm, Sun noon-7pm; closed Jan 1 & 6, Oct 15 & Dec 25; ?1.80) was started in the twelfth century but has never been finished, as evidenced by the missing tower above the main entrance. The earliest Romanesque parts were as much fortress as church, and the apse actually forms an integral part of the city walls. Their defensive function was real, with the twelfth-century Bishop Sancho providing sanctuary here for the young Alfonso IX, prior to his accession. Inside, the succeeding changes of style are immediately apparent; the Romanesque parts are made of a strange red-and-white mottled stone, then there's an abrupt break and the rest of the main structure is pure white stone and Gothic forms. Although the proportions are exactly the same, this newer half of the cathedral seems infinitely more spacious. The coro , whose elaborate carved back you see as you come in, and two chapels in the left aisle, are Renaissance additions. Here you can admire the carved stalls in the coro (the work of a Dutch sculptor, Cornelius) and the elaborate marble tomb of a fifteenth-century bishop known as El Tostado (the "toasted" or "swarthy"). The thirteenth-century sacristia with its star-shaped cupola and gold inlay decor, and the treasury-museum with its monstrous silver custodia and ancient religious images are also worth a visit. The basilica of San Vicente (daily 10am-1.30pm & 4-6.30pm; ?1.20), like the cathedral, is a mixture of architectural styles. Its twelfth-century doorways and the portico which protects them are magnificent examples of Romanesque art, while the church itself shows the influence of later trends. San Vicente was martyred on this site, and his tomb depicts a series of particularly gruesome deaths; in the crypt you can see the slab on which he and his sisters were executed by the Romans. This church shares with San Pedro , on Plaza de Santa Teresa, a warm pink glow from the sandstone of its construction - a characteristic aspect of Avila but seen most clearly here. The Monasterio de Santo Tomas (daily 10am-1pm & 4-8pm, closed Jan 1 & 6, Feb 1-6, Oct 15 & Dec 25; coro and cloisters ?0.50, museum ?1.20) is a Dominican monastery founded in 1482, but greatly expanded over the following decade by Fernando and Isabel, whose summer palace it became. Inside are three exceptional cloisters, the largest of which contains an oriental collection , a strangely incongruous display built up by the monks over centuries of missionary work in the Orient. On every available surface is carved the yoke-and-arrows motif of the Reyes Catolicos, surrounded by pomegranates, symbol of the newly conquered kingdom of Granada ( granada means "pomegranate" in Spanish). In the church is the elaborate tomb of Prince Juan, Fernando and Isabel's only son, whose early death opened the way for Carlos V's succession and caused his parents so much grief that they abandoned their newly completed home here. It was subsequently damaged by Napoleon's troops, who stabled their horses in the church. Notice also the tomb of the prince's tutors, almost as elaborate as his own, and the thrones occupied by the king and queen during services. The notorious inquisitor Torquemada is buried in the sacristy. Santo Tomas is quite a walk downhill from the south part of town - you can get back up by the #1 bus, which takes in much of the old city on its circular route. The small Museo Provincial is housed in the sixteenth-century Palacio de los Deanes (Tues-Sat 10am-2pm & 4.30-7.30pm, Sun 10.30am-2pm; ?1.20, free Sat & Sun) which once housed the cathedral's deans. Today, its eclectic exhibits include collections of archeological remains, ceramics, agricultural implements, traditional costumes and  © 2003 by Rough Guides Ltd. as trustee for its Authors. Published by Rough Guides. All rights reserved. Rough Guides name is a trademark of Rough Guides Ltd. Buy the book here!
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furnishings from around the Avila province, as well as some fine Romanesque statues and a wonderful fifteenth-century triptych depicting the life of Christ. The ticket also allows you entry to the museum storeroom in the church of Santo Tome El Viejo just opposite. It's possible to walk along the city walls from Puerta del Alcazar to Puerta del Rastro (Tues-Sun 11am-8pm; ?1.80); the view of the town is stunning. Tickets are available from the green kiosk by the Puerta del Alcazar.
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