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While you're on the Costa de la Luz, be sure to take time to visit VEJER DE LA FRONTERA , a classically white, Moorish-looking hill town set in a cleft between great protective hills that rear high above the road from Tarifa to Cadiz. If you arrive by bus, it's likely to drop you well below the town at two hostal-restaurantes - one of them, La Barca de Vejer (tel 956 450 083, fax 956 451 083; ?27-36), does superb bocadillos de lomo . The road winds up for another 4km, but just by one of the bus-stop cafes there's a donkey path that takes only about twenty minutes to reach the town. This is a perfect approach - for the drama of Vejer is in its isolation and its position, which gradually unfold before you. If you don't fancy the walk, though, taxis are usually available. Until the last decade, the women of Vejer wore long, dark cloaks that veiled their faces like nuns' habits; despite being adopted as the town's tourist icon, this custom seems now to be virtually extinct, but the place has a remoteness and Moorish feel as explicit as anywhere in Spain. There's a castle and a church of curiously mixed styles (mainly Gothic and Mudejar) but the main fascination lies in exploring the brilliant white and labyrinthine alleyways, wandering past iron-grilled windows, balconies and patios, and slipping into a succession of bars . Try the Bar Chirino on La Plazuela, which contains a photographic history of the town. There's a turismo at c/Marques de Tamaron 10, uphill from the central La Plazuela (Mon-Fri 8am-2pm & 6-9pm, Sat 9am-2pm; tel 956 450 191), which can provide a good town map, accommodation list and information on the budget casas particulares nearby. Outside August, finding accommodation shouldn't be a problem. A good place to start looking is at the excellent Hostal la Janda , c/Cerro Clarisas s/n (tel 956 450 142; ?18-27), or the delightful, upmarket Hotel Convento San Francisco (tel 956 643 570; ?48-60) on La Plazuela, which also stocks town maps if the turismo is closed. Both are rather hidden away, so ask for directions. A welcome addition to Vejer's hotel range is La Casa del Califa , Plaza de Espana 16 (tel 956 447 730, www.vejer.com ; ?48-60) in a refurbished ancient town house, where stylish rooms come internet-equipped and guests have use of two patios and a library and the price includes buffet breakfast. More economical options are available at nos. 7 or 16 c/Filmo, around the corner from the turismo, where families let out rooms during the summer. Vejer's campsite (tel 956 450 098; June-Sept) lies below the town on the main N340 Malaga to Cadiz road.
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