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Heading northwest from Tarifa, you find the most spectacular beaches of the whole Costa de la Luz - wide stretches of yellow or silvery-white sand, washed by some magical rollers. The same winds that have created such perfect conditions for windsurfing can, however, sometimes be a problem for more casual enjoyment, sandblasting those attempting to relax on towels or mats and whipping the water into whitecaps. The beaches lie immediately west of the town. They get better as you move past the tidal flats and the mosquito-ridden estuary - until the dunes start and the first camper vans lurk among the bushes. At TARIFA BEACH , a little bay 9km from town, there are restaurants, a windsurfing school, campsites and a pricey hostal, Millon (tel 956 685 246; ?60-90) at the base of a tree-tufted bluff. For more seclusion head for one of the numerous beach campsites on either side, signposted from the main road or accessible by walking along the coast. All of these - the main ones are Rio Jara (tel 956 680 570), Tarifa (tel 956 684 778), Torre de la Pena (tel 956 684 903) and Paloma (tel 956 684 203) - are well equipped, inexpensive and open all year.
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