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More interesting than Museo Taurino, perhaps, and more rewarding, is the Museo Arqueologico (Tues 3-8pm, Wed-Sat 9am-8pm, Sun 9am-3pm; last entry 30min before closing; ?1.50, free to EU citizens). During its original conversion, this small Renaissance mansion was revealed as the unlikely site of a genuine Roman patio. As a result it is one of the most imaginative and enjoyable small museums in the country, with good local collections from the Iberian, Roman and Moorish periods. Outstanding is an inlaid tenth-century bronze stag found at the Moorish palace of Medina Azahara where it was used as the spout of a fountain. A couple of blocks below the Archeological Museum, back towards the river, you'll come upon the Plaza del Potro , a fine old square named after the colt ( potro ) which adorns its fountain. This, as local guides proudly point out, is mentioned in Don Quixote , and indeed Cervantes himself is reputed to have stayed at the inn opposite, the Meson del Potro , which now houses the Casa de Cultura and is used for artesania displays and art exhibitions. On the other side of the square is the Museo de Bellas Artes (Tues 3-8pm, Wed-Sat 9am-8pm, Sun 9am-3pm; last entry 30min before closing; ?1.50, free to EU citizens), with paintings by Ribera, Valdes Leal and Zurbaran, and across its courtyard is the small Museo Julio Romero de Torres (Tues-Sat 10am-2pm & 5.30-7.30pm, Sun 9.30am-2.30pm; last entry 30min before closing; ?2.70, free Fri) devoted to the Cordoban artist Romero de Torres (1885-1930), a painter of some sublimely dreadful canvases, many of which depict reclining female nudes with furtive male guitar players. In the north of town, towards the train station, are numerous Renaissance churches - some converted from mosques, others showing obvious influence in their minarets - and a handful of convents and palaces. The best of these, still privately owned, is the Palacio del Marques de Viana (guided tours: Mon-Fri 10am-1pm & 4-6pm, Sat 10am-1pm; patios ?3, house additional ?3) whose main attraction for many visitors are its twelve flower-filled patios.
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