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Between the Mezquita and the beginning of the Avenida del Gran Capitan lies the Juderia , Cordoba's old Jewish quarter, and a fascinating network of lanes - more atmospheric and less commercialized than Sevilla's Barrio Santa Cruz, though souvenir shops are beginning to gain ground. Near the heart of the quarter, at c/Maimonides 18, is a synagogue (Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm & 3.30-5.30pm, Sun 10am-1.30pm; last entry 30min before closing; ?0.30, free to EU citizens), one of only three in Spain - the other two are in Toledo - that survived the Jewish expulsion of 1492. This one, built in 1316, is minute, particularly in comparison with the great Santa Maria in Toledo, but it has some fine stuccowork elaborating on a Solomon's-seal motif and retains its women's gallery. Outside is a statue of Maimonides, the Jewish philosopher, physician and Talmudic jurist, born in Cordoba in 1135. Nearby is a rather bogus Zoco - an Arab souk turned into a crafts arcade - and, adjoining this, a small Museo Taurino (Tues-Sat 10am-2pm & 5.30-7.30pm, Sun 9.30am-2.30pm; ?2.70, free Fri). The latter warrants a look, if only for the kitschy nature of its exhibits: row upon row of bulls' heads, two of them given this "honour" for having killed matadors. Beside a copy of the tomb of Manolete - most famous of the city's fighters - is exhibited the hide of his taurine nemesis, Islero.
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