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After the Mezquita, Cordoba's other remnants of Moorish - and indeed Christian - rule are not individually very striking. The river, though, with its great Arab waterwheels and Roman bridge (the Puente Romano), is an attractive area in which to wander. At the bridge's eastern end the medieval Torre de la Calahorra (daily 10am-2pm & 4.30-8.30pm; ?3.60) houses a gimmicky, hi-tech museum containing models of the pre-cathedral Mezquita, weird talking tableaux and a rather incongruous multimedia presentation on the history of man; there's a great panoramic view though, from the top of the tower towards the city. On the western riverbank the wheels, and the ruined mills, were in use for several centuries after the fall of the Muslim city, grinding flour and pumping water up to the fountains of the Alcazar, or Palace Fortress. This originally stood beside the Mezquita - on the site now occupied by the Episcopal Palace (aka Museo Diocesano de Bellas Artes; Mon-Fri 9.30am-1.30pm & 3.30-5.30pm, Sat 9.30am-1.30pm; last entry 30min before closing; ?0.90, or free with Mezquita ticket), now a museum of religious art with some fine examples of medieval wood sculpture. After the Christian conquest the Alcazar

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was rebuilt a little to the west by Fernando and Isabel, hence its name, Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos . The buildings (Tues-Sat 10am-2pm & 5.30-7.30pm, Sun 9.30am-3pm; last entry 30min before closing; ?1.80, free Fri) are a bit dreary, having served as the residence of the Inquisition from 1428 to 1821. However, they display some fine mosaics from Roman Cordoba, among which is one of the largest complete Roman mosaics in existence, and the gardens are very attractive.


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11/23/2008 12:58:54 AM

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