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Like Puerto Santa Maria, SANLUCAR DE BARRAMEDA also has its sherry connections. Set at the mouth of the Guadalquivir, it's the main depot for Manzanilla wine, a pale, dry variety much in evidence in the bars, which you can also sample during visits (booked in advance by phone) to the town's bodegas : Bodega Antonio Barbadillo , c/Eguilaz 11 (tel 956 360 894; Wed & Thurs only, 12.30pm; ?1.80), the town's major producer, has the most interesting visits and makes the famous La Gitana brand. Sanlucar is also the setting for some exciting horse races along the beach in the last two weeks of August, the best time to be here. There's not a great deal to see, although the attractive old quarter in the upper town, or Barrio Alto, is worth taking time to explore. The town's port was the scene of a number of important maritime exploits: Magellan set out from here to circumnavigate the globe, Pizarro embarked to conquer Peru, and 4km upriver, from the fishing harbour of Bonanza, Columbus sailed on his third voyage to the Americas. The few buildings of interest - the ducal palace of Medina Sidonia , the Palacio de Orleans y Borbon (guided visits 10am-2pm; closed Wed; ?0.60) built by the dukes of Montpensier and decorated in a wild neo-Mudejar style, the thirteenth-century church of Nuestro Senora de la O with its fine Gothic-Mudejar portal, and the substantial remains of the Moorish Castillo de Santiago - are all perched above the main part of town on the Cuesta de Belen in the Barrio Alto. One of the best things about Sanlucar is its shell-encrusted river beach and warm waters, a couple of kilometres' walk from the town centre and usually quite deserted. This is flanked, on the opposite shore, by the beginnings of the Coto Donana National Park, whose vast marshy expanses (strictly regulated access) signal the end of the coast road to the west. Visits to the park from Sanlucar are now possible with a new boat cruise which, while it doesn't allow for serious exploration, is nevertheless a wonderful introduction to this remarkable area. The trip lasts approximately four hours and allows two short guided walks inside the park. The Real Fernando leaves daily from the Bajo de Guia quay (April-Sept 9.30am & 5pm; Oct-March 10am only; tel 956 363 813; ?13.20 under-12s half price; advance booking essential). Tickets should be collected from the Fabrica de Hielo, Bajo de Guia s/n, the national park's exhibition centre (daily 9am-8pm). Accommodation is limited especially in summer. For a central position try the Pension Blanca Paloma , Plaza San Roque 9 (tel 956 363 644; ?18-27), or seek assistance from the turismo , Calzada del Ejercito (Mon-Fri 9am-2pm & 6-9pm, Sat & Sun 10am-1pm; tel 956 366 110), on the avenue leading to the sea, which can also provide a good town map.
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