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ROTA , 16km along the coast from El Puerto de Santa Maria, is marred by its proximity to one of the three major US bases in Spain - installed in the 1950s as part of a deal in which Franco exchanged strips of Spanish sovereign territory for economic aid and international "respectability". As a resort, it's no great shakes, but does boast two splendid beaches, and enough discos, bars and fish restaurants to satisfy your needs should you decide to stay. CHIPIONA , at the edge of the next point, is simpler: a small, straightforward seaside resort crammed with family pensiones . Older tourists come here for the spa waters , channelled into a fountain at the church of Nuestra Senora de Regla, but for most it's the beaches that are the lure. South of the town and lighthouse is the long Playa de Regla , where, outside July and August, it's easy enough to leave the crowds behind; northeast, towards Sanlucar, are sand bars and rocks. If you're planning on staying in the town, the hostales along the beach are the most attractive; in mid-season you'll need help getting a room from the women who meet new arrivals at the bus station; failing this, a turismo inside the Casa de Cultura on the central Plaza de Andalucia (Mon-Fri 10am-1.30pm & 7-9pm; tel 956 372 828) should be able to advise. The combined campsite and youth hostel , Pinar de Chipiona (tel 956 371 480; open all year), is 3km out of town towards Rota - any Rota-bound bus will drop you off.
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