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With the major exception of Sevilla - and to a slightly lesser extent Cordoba - the west and centre of Andalucia are not greatly visited. The coast here, certainly the Atlantic Costa de la Luz , is a world apart from the Mediterranean resorts, with the entire stretch between Algeciras and Tarifa designated a "potential military zone". This probably sounds grim - and in parts, marked off by Paso Prohibido signs, it is - but the ruling has also had happier effects, preventing foreigners from buying up land and placing strict controls even on Spanish developments. So, for a hundred or more kilometres, there are scarcely any villa developments and only a modest number of hotels and campsites - small, easy-going and low-key even at the one growing resort of Conil . On the coast, too, there is the attraction of Cadiz , one of the oldest and, though it's now in decline, most elegant ports in Europe. Inland rewards include the smaller towns between Sevilla and Cordoba, Moorish Carmona particularly. But the most beautiful, and neglected, parts of this region are the dark, ilex-covered hills and poor rural villages of the Sierra Morena to the north and northwest of Sevilla. Perfect walking country with its network of streams and reservoirs between modest peaks, this is also a botanist's dream, brilliant with a mass of spring flowers. On a more organized level, though equally compelling if you're into bird-watching or wildlife, is the huge nature reserve of the Coto de Donana , spreading back from Huelva in vast expanses of marismas - sand dunes, salt flats and marshes. The most important of the Spanish reserves, Donana is vital to scores of migratory birds and to endangered mammals such as the Iberian lynx.
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