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Heading east from Trevelez, you come to JUVILES , an attractive town straddling the road. At its centre is an unwhitewashed, peanut-brittle-finish church with a clock that's usually running slow (like most things round here). A single all-in-one fonda-restaurante -store, Bar Fernandez (tel 958 769 168; ?12-18; meals on demand), is simple and very friendly, with great views from the second floor east over the valley to Cadiar. Pension Tino (tel 958 769 174; ?18-27), a little back along the main street, has rooms with bath and serves raciones . BERCHULES , a high village of grassy streams and chestnut woods, lies only 4km beyond Juviles, but a greater contrast can hardly be imagined. It is a large, abruptly demarcated settlement, three streets wide, on a sharp slope overlooking yet another canyon. For accommodation the Fonda-Restaurante Carayol , c/Iglesia 18 below the church (aka Pension Resu ; tel 958 769 092; ?12-18), has rooms with bath; La Posada (tel 958 852 541; ?18-27), on the central Plaza Victoria (aka Plaza Abastos), is another possibility; and on the main road the more expensive Hotel Berchules (tel & fax 958 852 530; ?36-48) has comfortable rooms above its own restaurant. For food , Bar Vaqueras , also on Plaza Victoria, does decent tapas, and there's an excellent grocery in the village - a godsend if you're planning on doing any walking out of here, since most village shops in the Alpujarras are rather primitive. Just below Berchules, CADIAR , the central town of the Alpujarras, is more attractive than it seems from a distance, and there are a handful of hostales and camas if you want to stay. The friendly Hostal Montoro , c/San Isidro 20 (tel 958 768 068; ?12-18), near the central plaza, has excellent-value en-suite heated rooms, while for food , the very good Bar-Restaurante La Para de La Suerte , near the petrol station as you come in from Berchules, is owned by the same people. There's a colourful produce market on the 3rd and 18th of every month, sometimes including livestock, and from October 5 to 9 the Fuente del Vino wine and cattle fair takes place, turning the waters of the fountain literally to wine. Cadiar and Berchules mark the end of the western Alpujarras, and a striking change in the landscape; the dramatic, severe, but relatively green terrain of the Guadalfeo and Cadiar valleys gives way to open rolling land that's much more arid, a prelude to the deserts of Almeria that lie ahead
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