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PITRES and PORTUGOS , two villages on the High Route, are perhaps more "authentic" and less polished than the villages of the Poqueira Gorge. You're more likely to find rooms here during the summer months, while all around spreads some of the best Alpujarran walking country. For accommodation in Pitres try the Fonda Sierra Nevada (tel 958 766 017; ?12-18), on the main square; they also rent out apartments nearby with salon , kitchen and bath (?18-27). On the village's eastern edge the Refugio de los Albergues (tel 958 766 004; under ?12) is an old Civil War hostel with very cheap dormitory beds and cooking facilities. Close by, and on the main road, El Jardin is a British-run restaurant with garden terrace, great views and an eclectic vegetarian menu. Pitres's campsite , Balcon de Pitres (tel 958 766 111; March-Oct), with restaurant and pool, is located in a stunning position 1km west of the village. Portugos has the Hostal Mirador (tel 958 766 014; ?18-27), on the main square, and a fonda (?12-18) at Los Castanos, 1km east. Down below the main road (GR421) linking Pitres and Portugos are the three villages of Mecina Fondales (and its offshoot Mecinilla), Ferreirola and Busquistar; along with Pitres, these formed a league of villages known as the Taha under the Moors. FERREIROLA and BUSQUISTAR are especially attractive, as is the path between the two, clinging to the north side of the valley of the Rio Trevelez. You're out of tourist country here and the villages display their genuine characteristics to better effect. In Busquistar there's an inn , the Hostal Mirador de la Alpujarra (tel & fax 958 857 470; ?27-36), just uphill from the church, with great views and a restaurant. MECINILLA also has a charming hostal, L'Atelier , c/Alberca s/n (tel & fax 958 857 501, mecinilla@yahoo.com ; ?27-36), in traditional dwellings; it's run by a friendly French chef who prepares outstanding dishes in the adjoining vegetarian restaurant . TREVELEZ , at the end of an austere ravine carved by the Rio Trevelez, is purportedly Spain's highest permanent settlement, with cooler temperatures year-round than its neighbours. In traditional Alpujarran style it has lower, middle and upper quarters ( barrios bajo, medio and alto ) overlooking a grassy, poplar-lined valley where the river starts its long descent. The village is well provided with hostales ; if you are susceptible to low temperatures, outside July and August you may want a place with efficient heating. In the barrio medio, Hostal Fernando (tel 958 858 565; ?18-27) is friendly and has heated rooms, as does the comfortable Hotel La Fragua , c/Antonio 4 (tel 958 858 626, fax 958 858 614; ?27-36), in the barrio alto , which has an excellent restaurant. Another place to eat is the Rio Grande , down near the bridge, which serves good, solid mountain food and is often the only place open in the evening. Trevelez's jamon serrano is a prized speciality and an obsession throughout Andalucia, and good places to try it here include Meson del Jamon above the Plaza de la Iglesia or Meson Joaquin in the lower barrio . Although Capileira is probably the more pleasant base, Trevelez is traditionally the jump-off point for the high sierra peaks (to which there is a bona fide path) and for treks across the range (on a lower, more conspicuous track). The latter begins down by the bridge on the eastern side of the village. After skirting the bleak Horcajo de Trevelez (3182m), and negotiating the Puerto de Trevelez (2800m), the path drops gradually down along the north flank of the Sierra Nevada to Jerez del Marquesado (see the "Ruta de los Tres Mil").
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