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UBEDA , 9km east of Baeza, is a larger town with modern suburbs. Follow the signs to the Zona Monumental and you'll eventually reach the Plaza de Vazquez de Molina , a tremendous Renaissance square which is one of the most impressive of its kind in Spain. Most of the buildings round the square were the late sixteenth-century work of Andres de Vandelvira, the architect of Baeza's cathedral and numerous churches in both towns. One of these buildings, the Palacio de las Cadenas , originally a palace for Felipe II's secretary, houses Ubeda's ayuntamiento and features a magnificent facade fronted by monumental lions. In another part of the same building the Museo de Alfareria (Tues-Sat 10.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-8pm, Sun 10.30am-2pm; ?2.40) displays pottery of varying ages and types from all over Spain as well as Ubeda itself, still an important centre of ceramic craftsmanship. At the opposite end of the square, the Capilla del Salvador (daily 10am-2pm & 5-7.30pm; ?2.10, free Mon-Thurs 6.30-7.30pm), erected by Vandelvira, though actually designed by Diego de Siloe, architect of the Malaga and Granada cathedrals, is the finest church in Ubeda. It's a masterpiece of Spanish Renaissance architecture with a dazzling Plateresque facade, its highlight a carving of the Transfiguration of Christ flanked by statues of St Peter and St Paul. Inside, the Transfiguration theme is repeated in a brilliantly animated retablo by Alonso de Berruguete, who studied under Michelangelo. Following c/Horno Contado out of the Plaza de Vazquez de Molina leads to yet another delightful square, the Plaza del Primero de Mayo, and the idiosyncratic church of San Pablo , with a thirteenth-century balcony (a popular feature in Ubeda) and various Renaissance additions. The turismo (Mon-Sat 8am-3pm; tel 953 750 897) is housed in its own Renaissance mansion, the Palacio del Marques de Contadero, c/Baja Marques 4, just to west of the Plaza de Vazquez de Molina, and can provide a town map. Most of the budget accommodation options are grouped around the main bus station on Avenida de Ramon y Cajal, in the modern part of town - the Hostal Castillo at no. 16 (tel 953 750 430; ?18-27) and Hostal Sevilla at no. 9 (tel 953 750 612; ?18-27) are both reasonable, and have better rooms with bath. For some of the least expensive rooms in town, try Hostal San Miguel , Avda. Libertad 69 (tel 953 752 049; ?18-27), a fifteen-minute walk from the bus station. In the monumental quarter, the only option is the Parador Condestable Davalos , Plaza de Vazquez de Molina 1 (tel 953 750 345, fax 953 751 259; ?90-120), housed in yet another fabulous sixteenth-century Renaissance mansion. There are plenty of places to eat around Avenida Ramon y Cajal: El Gallo Rojo , c/Torrenueva 3, has outdoor tables in the evening; El Olivo , Avda. Ramon y Cajal 6, serves good platos combinados ; and Hostal Castillo has its own excellent-value restaurant with an economical menu . For a treat, the elegant restaurant of the parador offers a great-value lunch menu - with regional specialities - for about ?21.
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