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Heading directly to Jerez or Sevilla from Ronda, a beautiful rural drive, you pass below ZAHARA DE LA SIERRA (or de los Membrillos - "of the Quinces"), perhaps the most perfect example of these fortified hill towns. Set in beautiful country, a landmark for miles around, its red-tiled houses huddle round a church and castle on a stark outcrop of rock. Once an important Moorish town, its capture by the Christians in 1483 opened the way for the conquest of Ronda - and ultimately Granada. There's a clutch of places to stay : the homely and simple Pension Gonzalo , c/San Juan 9, with no sign, opposite the church (?12-18), Los Estribos , c/Fuerte 3 (tel 956 137 445; ?18-27), near the swimming pool, and the excellent Hotel Marques de Zahara , c/San Juan 3 (tel 956 123 061; ?27-36), with a good restaurant . Zahara's pleasant campsite lies 3km outside the village along the old Ronda road (open April-Sept; a taxi costs about ?3); here you can rent a tent complete with camp beds.
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