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It was at the little alpine town of KOBARID (Caporetto in Italian) that German and Austrian troops finally broke through Italian lines in 1917, almost knocking Italy out of the war in the process. Ernest Hemingway, then a volunteer ambulance driver on the Italian side, took part in the chaotic retreat that followed - an experience which resurfaced in his novel A Farewell to Arms . A processional way leads up from Kobarid's main square to a monumental, three-tiered Italian War Memorial (Italijanska Kostnica) officially opened by Benito Mussolini in 1938, and a fitting place from which to enjoy views of the surrounding alps and ponder Kobarid's violent past. Back in town, the Kobarid museum at Gregorciceva 10 (Kobariski muzej; summer Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat & Sun 9am-7pm; winter daily 10am-5pm; 500SIT), presents a thoughtful and balanced record of the war with a gripping collection of photographs. Continue past the museum, head downhill and take the Dreznica road across the river Soca to pick up trails to the Kozjak waterfall (Slap Kozjak; 50min), less impressive for its height than for the cavern-like space which it has carved out of the surrounding rock. Numerous paths branch off from here into the wooded hills, passing trench systems dug by the Italians during the war. The Kobarid Historical Walk brochure, available from the museum, maps out a few potential itineraries. Kobarid's tourist office is housed in the museum (same times; tel 05/389-9200 , www.kobarid.si ), and has a limited number of private rooms (GBP5-10/$8-16/?9-18) in Kobarid and surrounding villages. The chic rooms at the Hvala hotel on the main square (tel 05/389-9300, www.topli-val.si ; GBP20-25/$32-40/?36-45) are remarkably good value for the level of comfort on offer. There's also a campsite , the Koren (tel 05/388-5312), about 500m out of town on the way towards the Kozjak waterfall. As for eating , there's nowhere cheap in town save for Pizzeria pri Vitku , hidden away in a residential district (take the road south out of town and follow the signs). The Topli Val , attached to the Hotel Hvala (see above), is one of the best restaurants in the country and specializes in fish (including Soca trout); and with meals costing from around GBP20/$30 per person it's well worth a splash-out. Details of local firms offering rafting trips can be picked up from the tourist office or the reception area of the Hotel Hvala . One of the biggest is Alpin Action in Trnovo ob Soci, 6km north of town (tel 05/388-5022). Expect to pay GBP20/$30 to GBP30/$45 per trip.
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