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On the other, less-touristed side of the mountains from Bohinj, the river Soca cuts through the western spur of the Julian alps, running parallel with Slovenia's border with Italy. During World War I, the Soca (Isonzo in Italian) marked the front line between the Italian and Austro-Hungarian armies, and three years of bitter warfare on the surrounding peaks rivalled the Western Front in terms of futile offensives and wasted lives. Memorial chapels and abandoned fortifications abound, located incongruously amidst awesome alpine scenery. However there's more to the Soca valley than military history: it's also a major centre for activity-based tourism, with the foaming river itself providing the ideal venue for rafting and kayaking throughout the spring and summer. Main tourist centres are Kobarid and Bovec , both small towns with a range of walking possibilities right on the doorstep. The 1:50,000 Posocje map covers trails in the region: pick it up in Ljubljana if you can, as not all local shops have it. Although both places are served by four daily buses from Ljubljana, transport connections with the rest o Slovenia are patchy. Approaching the Soca valley from the Bled-Bohinj area involves catching one of six daily trains from Bled-Jezero or Bohinjska Bistrica to Most na Soci , where 5 buses daily run onwards up the valley. Getting here from the coast entails catching buses working the Koper-Sezana-Nova Gorica-Tolmin-Kobarid route (minimum journey time of 4hr depending on connections), although you might have to change at each stage of the journey.
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