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One hundred and twenty kilometres northeast of Ljubljana, PTUJ is the oldest town in Slovenia and about the most attractive as well, rising up from the Drava Valley in a flutter of red roofs and topped by a friendly looking castle. But the best thing is its streets, with scaled-down mansions standing shoulder to shoulder on scaled-down boulevards, medieval fantasies crumbling next to Baroque extravagances. Out of the windows hang plants and the locals; watching the world go by is a major occupation here. Ptuj is on the main rail line from Ljubljana to Budapest (the Venice-Ljubljana-Budapest express passes through here once a day in both directions), and can also be reached by bus from Slovenia's second-largest city Maribor , which is on the Ljubljana-Vienna line. On arriving at Maribor, turn left outside the train station and head downhill - the bus station is on the other side of the crossroads.
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