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POSTOJNA is on the main rail route south 65km from Ljubljana, but as the walk to the caves from Postojna train station is further than from the bus stop, most people go by one of the regular buses. Once in the town, signs direct you to the caves and their suitably cavernous entrance (daily: May-Sept 9am-6pm tours hourly; Oct-April 10am-4pm tours every 2 hours; last tour leaves 1hr before closing; 2200SIT , www.postojna-cave.com ); inside a railway whizzes you helter-skelter through 2km of preliminary systems before the guided tour starts. It's little use trying to describe the vast and fantastic jungles of rock formations; the point is to see them for yourself - breathtaking stuff. Postojna's caves are about four million years old and provide a chilly home for Proteus anguineus , a weird creature that looks like a cross between a bloated sperm and a prawn. Actually it's a sort of salamander, one of whose odd capabilities is to give birth to live young in temperatures above 16°F (-10°C) and to lay eggs if it's colder. They live their seventy-year lives down here in total darkness and hence are blind - and no doubt very confused at being put on display to inquisitive tourists. Accommodation in private rooms (GBP5/$8/?9-GBP15/$24/?27) is arranged by Kompas in the town centre at Titov trg 2a (Mon-Fri 8am-7pm, Sat 9am-1pm; tel 05/726-4281, info@kompas-postojna.si ). They can also supply information on the town and the caves. There's a campsite , the Pivka Jama (tel 05/726-5382), 4km beyond the cave entrance and not served by public transport, which also has four-person apartments and bungalows for about GBP12/$18 per person. There are only two hotels in town, both of which are very drab; the Kras , in the town centre at Trzaska 1 (tel 05/726-4071; GBP15-20/$24-32/?27-36); and Jama (tel 05/728-2400; GBP15-20/$24-32/?27-36), by the caves. Pizzeria Minutka , at Ljubljankska 14, is a pleasant alternative to the cluster of tourist eateries by the caves.
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