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Fifty kilometres northwest of Ljubljana, towards Austria and at the eastern end of the Julian Alps, are the mountain lakes of Bled and Bohinj , Slovenia's number one tourist attraction. While Bled, surrounded by Olympian mountains and oozing charm, lives up to expectations it's also chock-full with tourists, which can't help but temper its delights. Bohinj, in contrast, is less visited, more beautiful and much cheaper - and, should you want to explore the imposing and exhilarating mountains around Mt Triglav, at 2864m Slovenia's highest peak, this is the place to go. If you're interested in serious hiking , good maps are essential: your best bets are the 1:50,000 Triglav National Park , the 1:25,000 Mount Triglav , and the 1:25,000 Bled and environs - all published by the Slovene alpine association. Pick them up in Ljubljana bookshops or from the tourist offices in Bled and Ribcev Laz. Buses are the easiest way to reach both Bled and Bohinj (hourly from Ljubljana; 1hr 15min to Bled, 2hr to Bohinj). Rail access to the region is either via the main northbound line from Ljubljana, which calls at Bled-Lesce 3km southeast of Bled itself (and linked to Bled by a regular bus), or a branch line which leaves the main Ljubljana-Villach route at Jesenice and crosses the mountains towards Italy and the coast, calling at Bled-Jezero and Bohinjska Bistrica on the way. The trip from Jesenice, chugging steadily through the mountains and karst, is as impressive as you'd imagine. Train buffs should note that a steam train , the museum train or muzejni vlak , is laid on in summer months, at considerable additional expense.
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