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Though a constant stream of sponsored walkers, caravans and tour groups makes it to John O'Groats , surprisingly few visitors travel the whole length of the Highlands' wild north coast . Those that do, however, rarely return disappointed. Pounded by one of the world's most ferocious seaways, Scotland's rugged northern shore is backed by barren mountains in the west, and in the east by lochs and open rolling grasslands. Between its far ends, mile upon mile of crumbling cliffs and sheer rocky headlands shelter bays whose perfect white beaches are nearly always deserted, even in the height of summer - though, somewhat incongruously, they're also home to Scotland's best surfing waves. This is a great area for birdwatching , with huge seabird colonies clustered in clefts and on remote stacks at regular intervals along the coast; seals also bob around in the surf offshore, and in winter whales put in the odd appearance in the more sheltered estuaries of the northwest. Public transport around this stretch of coast can be a slow and frustrating business: Thurso , the area's main town and springboard for Orkney, is well connected by bus and train with Inverness, but further west, after the main A836 peters into a single-track road, you have to rely on postbus connections or, in peak season, the single Highland Country bus #387.
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