The southern half of Arran is less spectacular and less forbidding than the north; it's more heavily forested and the land is more fertile, and for that reason the vast majority of the population lives here. With its distinctive Edwardian architecture and mild climate, LAMLASH epitomizes the sedate charm of southeast Arran. Its major drawback is its bay, which is made not of sand but of boulder-strewn mud flats. You can take a boat out to the slug-shaped hump of Holy Island, which shelters the bay, and is now owned by a group of Tibetan Buddhists who have set up a meditation centre - providing you don't dawdle, it's possible to scramble up to the top of Mullach Mor (1030ft), the island's highest point, and still catch the last ferry back. To stay in style, head for the comfortable Lilybank (tel 01770/600230, ; GBP50-60), which does good home-made food. You can camp at the fully equipped Middleton Camping Park (tel 01770/600255; April-Oct), just five minutes' walk south of the centre. Food options are limited to the bar meals at the Pier Head Tavern , or at the friendly Drift Inn by the shore; there's even a Chinese takeaway behind the post office.
An established Clydeside resort for over a century now, WHITING BAY , four miles south of Lamlash, is spread out along a very pleasant bay, though it doesn't have quite the distinctive architecture of Lamlash. However, there are some excellent places to stay , including the Royal (tel 01770/700286, ; March-Oct; GBP50-60), the Argentine House Hotel , run
(confusingly) by a multilingual Swiss couple (tel 01770/700662, ; closed Feb; GBP40-50), both on Shore Road, and the beautiful, whitewashed Swan's Guest House (tel 01770/700729, ; GBP40-50; Feb-Nov), up the hill on School Road. Whiting Bay also boasts an SYHA hostel (tel 01770/700339, ; March-Oct), at the southern end of the bay. The food is good at the Burlington Hotel on Shore Road, and at the Argentine House Hotel , though the latter's more expensive.
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