Isle of Coll Travel Video Guide

Isle of Coll Travel Itinerary

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The fish-shaped rocky island of Coll (population 180) lies less than seven miles off the coast of Mull. The CalMac ferry drops off at Coll's only real village, ARINAGOUR , whose whitewashed cottages dot the western shore of Loch Eatharna. Half the island's population lives in the village, and it's here you'll find the hotel and pub, post office, churches and a couple of shops.

On the southwest coast there are two edifices, both confusingly known as Breachacha Castle , and both built by the MacLeans. The older, at the head of Loch Breachacha, is a fifteenth-century tower house with an additional curtain wall, recently restored, and is now a training centre for Project Trust overseas aid volunteers. The less attractive "new castle", to the northwest, is made up of a central block built around 1750 and two side pavilions added a century later, and is currently being restored. It was here that Dr Johnson and Boswell stayed in 1773 after a storm forced them to take refuge en route to Mull; they considered the place to be "a mere tradesman's box". Much of the area around the castles is now owned by the RSPB, in the hope of protecting the island's precious corncrake population. A vast area of giant sand dunes lies to the west of the castles, with two glorious golden sandy bays stretching for over a mile on either side. At the far western end is Caolas , where you can get a cup of tea and home-baked goodies, and where you can book ahead to stay (tel 01879/230438; under GBP40).

The CalMac ferry from Oban calls at Coll (2hr 40min) every day except Thursdays and Sundays. In Arinagour, the small, family-run Coll Hotel (tel 01879/230334; GBP50-60) can provide accommodation ; otherwise, there's the comfortable, modern Taigh Solas (tel 01879/230333; GBP40-50), overlooking the bay. Achamore (tel

01879/230430, jim@achamore.freeserve.co.uk ; GBP40-50), a traditional nineteenth-century farmhouse B&B, lies two miles west of Arinagour. The Coll Hotel doubles as the island's social centre, does excellent food and has a dining-room overflow. Another eating option is the First Port of Coll restaurant in Arinagour, which does inexpensive light meals. For bike rental , phone 01879/230382 or 230873; for whale-watching trips, phone 01879/230333 or 230426.

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